United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD) Department for International Development (DFID), Government of India (GOI) are jointly implementing a project, “Strategies & Preparedness for Trade and Globalization in India” with the objective of strengthening human and institutional capacity amongst stakeholders and support and sustain a more equitable process of globalization. In this context a workshop on “Export Promotion for Rajasthan Handloom & Handblock Print Products” was organized at Jaipur on 15.3.2008 by RUDA and UNCTAD. In the said workshop Mr. Abhijeet Das, CEO UNCTAD, India Office said that since the artisans, mainly of rural India, posses expertise to manufacture textiles, handicrafts and other traditional products that have unique features on account of special skills, it can be considered as a capital asset of the artisans. He said one of the effective ways to leverage the unique identity of a product is to obtain geographical indication if the product is suitable for it. Participants from Sanganer block printing cluster presented a very interesting account of their products and processes. Some of them emphasised that the production of Sanganeri prints has a history of more than 300 years and we possess hereditary skill of dyeing and block printing. It was decided, therefore, that a suitable study be conducted to ascertain the uniqueness and origin of Sanganeri Prints to explore the possibilities of getting Geographical Indication. Accordingly RUDA with a support from UNCTAD and IMC requisitioned services of RCCI for conducting the above said study. It was decided that the study should focus on present scenario of handblock printing units of Sanganer, traditional process of production, uniqueness of products and proofs of origin of block printing at Sanganer.

The Work for Study Report and submission of Geographical Indication registration for Sanganeri Print application to GI Office, Chennai was awarded by Rural for Non Development Agency (RUDA) to Rajasthan Chamber of Commerce & Industry (RCCI) vide Memorandum Of Understanding  dated 18.6.2008. Study report was prepared and presented at a Workshop held on 25.10.2008 at RCCI and chaired by Sh. Abhijit Das, Chief Executive Officer, United Nations Conference on Trade and Development. During the same Workshop Draft application for Sanganeri Print prepared by RCCI was also presented and discussed in detail. The final application for Registration of Geographical Indication of Sanganeri Print in three sets have been sent to the Assistant Registrar of GI, Chennai on 1.12.2008. The application is under scrutiny at Chennai office and the work of granting GI for Sanganeri Print is in progress.

GI Registration for Bagru Print

The production of Bagru prints has a history of more than 300 years and we possess hereditary skill of dyeing and block printing. It was decided, therefore, that a suitable study be conducted to ascertain the uniqueness and origin of Bagru Prints to explore the possibilities of getting Geographical Indication. Accordingly RUDA with a support from UNCTAD and IMC requisitioned services of RCCI for conducting the above said study. It was decided that the study should focus on present scenario of handblock printing units of Bagru, traditional process of production, uniqueness of products and proofs of origin of block printing at Bagru.

RUDA vide their Office Sanction Order No. F/RUDA/Bagru Hand Block/2008/ 3611 dated 22.12.2008 and MOU dated 29.1.2009 have also allotted the work of Geographical Indication for Bagru Print to RCCI. We have interacted with Bagru Printers and taken their consent for working together on the aforesaid project and the survey work is in progress.

Impact Study for GI Registration with respect to Kota Doria Sarees

RUDA vide their letter dated 8.7.2008 offered RCCI to carry out the impact study for GI Registration with respect to Kota Doria Sarees alongwith the scope of services and work to be carried out. The study involved detail survey and interaction with several stakeholders including Manufacturers, Trade Unions, Associations, Labour Department, Police Department, Industry Department, and Collectorate. G. I.  has resulted in  very high sale of products which  are recognized all over India

Subject mentioned study was carried out during July, 2008. Completion report was submitted to RUDA office on 8.8.2008. Hard copies of the same were sent to Mr. Abhijit Das, CEO, UNCTAD and Mr. J.C.Srivastava- Regional Advisor, IMC Delh and after taking care of their comments and suggestions the report had to be therefore,  revised substantially. The revised report had now been submitted to UNCTAD, IMC and RUDA office on 16.09.08. Mr. Abhijit Das was kind enough to convey us thanks and satisfaction on the report. 

Major Impacts Due To G.I

1.       KDHF developed a LOGO with the consent of all the weavers to prevent sale of fake Kota Doria.  This Logo is weaved on all the Sarees and fabric to enable the buyer to differentiate Real Kota Doria from Powerloom products.

2.       The income of weavers has tripled after GI and are now getting more work.

3.       Master weavers are now able to dictate and negotiate wages and sale price respectively and are thus able to make more profit.

4.       70% of the Traders knew about GI and use of Logo to differentiate Real Kota Doria from Powerloom Sarees.  They were also aware that due to G.I. sale of powerloom sarees in the name of Kota Doria is punishable.

5.       Training camps, Design Workshops, Fashion Shows, Exposure visits, Interaction with well known designers, organized by RUDA during 2005-07 resulted in increased turnover and use of Kota Doria for ladies and gents garment. 

6.       The master weavers are now quite proactive, wise, confident and “Matured Business Persons”. Accordingly they are able to interact and impress National/International buyers about the quality and genuineness of the products and thus able to negotiate for higher prices.

7.       Positive Social Impact is visible in terms of improved standard of living, affordability of weavers to educate their children in better schools and colleges; neat and cleanness of their homes and working areas, which was unaffordable before GI.  The girls of weaver families, expert in this Heritage Art, are now in great demand and have very High Matrimonial Prospects. The women weavers were found very forward looking and had no hesitation in dealing with buyers, Government Officials and Banks.

8.       Only elite class buyers are ready to pay higher price for Real Kota Doria.